Dallas's Best Kept Secret

We've figured out that to survive August in Dallas you have to a.) stay inside, b.) travel to high elevation on the east or west coast, or c.) situate yourself in a swimming pool and stay there. Having done both a and b in recent weeks, we opted for option c last weekend. Dan had heard about a public pool tucked into the woods of Dallas's Lakewood neighborhood. It was called The Fraternal Order of Eagles. The name alone got me. The FOE is a national nonprofit that raises money for local causes. Rumor has it members like to party. For an admission price of seven dollars each, we we were in!

The best way to describe this place is a VFW with a big freaking pool. I can't tout the merits of FOE enough: well drinks served in big red solo cups for $3.25, ice cold Lone Star cans for $2.25, and fresh-grilled burgers and deep-fried French fries for the amount of spare change you have in your pocket right now. If you've ever been an apartment complex pool in Uptown, this place is the opposite. Everyone is sipping a cold one and having a lovely time, but there's no parade of teensy bikinis, gelled hair, and stilettos on the pool deck. You'll see lots of couples, lots of tattoos, and a handful of kids. Music plays on a loudspeaker and the selection is beyond eclectic: think Viva Las Vegas followed by Rhianna.

I borrowed this photo from a reviewer on yelp.com. Read the full review here.

Matchmaking at Molto Formaggio

When it's slow at Molto, I get to play mad food scientist, slicing off bits of any cheese I want and pairing them up with any of a number of already-open honeys, oils, confits, and pestos at my own discretion. With so many fantastic ingredients, it is rare that I make a bad match. Still, it's always fun to have some guidance. Luckily I was working alongside a savvy cheese monger on recent such shift, who recommended I top my slice of yesterday's baguette with Roquefort and Williams Pear & White Wine Confit. Oh. My. God. All you lovers of blue cheese, all you lovers of the mouthwatering combination of sweet and salt—get in the car, drive to your nearest cheese shop (hopefully that's Molto Formaggio), and purchase these two items. Then thank me for changing your life.

Dallas Day Trip

Yesterday, while the rest of Texas was sinking into the sofa for the Cowboys game, we were driving north on 75 for the next in our series of day trips from Dallas. Our destination? McKinney, Texas, where, on the weekend before the third Monday of each month, hundreds of vendors set up shop at Third Monday Trade Days. Should you be in the market for a handcrafted oak cutting board, an old license plate, or a puppy —this is the place for you. And should you grow weary from browsing, a bounty of state-fair grub—corn dogs, turkey legs, tater tornados—is available for the noshing. We managed to keep to our shoestring budget, picking up only a $1 wall-mountable bottle opener and two wooden bowls ($3 each).

Shopped out, but with plenty of daylight hours still left to burn, we headed to McKinney's downtown square, where we encountered a historic village,

(surprise!) antique shops —and, thankfully, a wine bar where we could take a breather. Now, it was time for our final stop, Rockwall, abutting the shores of Lake Ray Hubbard—30-some-odd miles southeast. We ended our adventure at the Flying Saucer, a taphouse on the water.

Check out the photo montage!

Going Green

It's not quite spring (hell, it's not even close to spring), but the ice has melted from the city's fountains and temps are back up to a cool mid-50s. That, coupled with the current events unfolding at home (Dan and I are in the negotiating period of buying our first house, which actually has a small yard!), and today's Dallas Morning News coverage of all things gardening has got me on a quest for flora, which, until we actually move out of our apartment on April 1, will remain mostly in my imagination.In gardening news today (control your yawns—this is actually pretty cool stuff), San Francisco's much-lauded Flora Grubb Gardens now sells flat, wall-mountable planters designed to hold tiny succulents that create a natural wall decoration. For 99 bucks, you get a 20”x20” tray with 45 slanted planting cells designed to support plants and soil once the thing is mounted. Voila!
Vertical Garden. (FYI this is meant to be displayed outdoors) For more enticing photos, see Flora's blog.

In Dallas, two new garden shops have opened: regional chain Under the Sun (7124 Campbell Road), and Downing Hill (3016 Greenville Ave.), which specializes in locally made garden accents, like gurgle pots, and yes, garden gnomes.

Taylor Pugh Still Studying Solo

I'm finding it difficult to stifle my anger over the ridiculous scenario that's playing itself out at Floyd Elementary School in the Dallas suburb of Mesquite. Four-year-old Taylor Pugh has been exiled from class because his hair is an unacceptable length, according to the school's dress code. (see my previous post here) The latest? If he doesn't get a trim, he will be sent, indefinitely, to in-school suspension.

PHOTO: Torres/AP

From the Dallas Morning News story today:

Instead of working one-on-one with a teacher's aide in the library, Taylor would work by himself at a desk in the Floyd Elementary School office, said district spokeswoman Laura Jobe. "There would be people checking on him from time to time, but it wouldn't be the same attention he has now."

So a child with hair that is longer than what administrators deem appropriate, but who is otherwise perfectly well-behaved, is being punished. Not only that, but surely his education has suffered since the whole ordeal came about in November. Part of going to school as a four-year-old is interacting with the other tikes. And isn't the whole point of a dress code to cut down on distractions? What's more distracting—a kid with shaggy hair or the endless parade of cameramen, photographers, and reporters that have staked out the scene? Some would argue that his parents should bite the bullet and make an appointment at Supercuts. I'd argue that they're doing the right thing. They should continue to fight until Taylor's allowed to go to school with hair any length he wants. The next step, according to the Texas Education Agency, is for the Pughs to file an appeal to the state commissioner of education. What are they waiting for?

Going back to school? Get your masters in entrepreneurship!

I've got a keen interest in all things entrepreneurial, especially since I became an official part-owner of Catskill Lodge, the inn my husband and his brothers own in Windham, New York. I love reading stories of people who are taking on careers that jibe with their real interests after leaving a job or being laid off. I also love reading about entrepreneurial success stories (a la Groupon). So I was excited to read that the University of Texas at Dallas just established a master's degree in entrepreneurship. Now those of us that want to do our own thing can go into with a little more know-how.

Read the Dallas Morning News article here.

Whirlwind Weekend

Wow, I forgot how short weekends become when you work on Saturday and Sunday! Still, Dan and I managed, in our typical fashion, to try four new eating and drinking establishments, tuor seven houses, and take a trip to Irving:

Friday:
Finally made another, long overdue trip to Vino 100, one of the first bars I went to here in Dallas. (Remember my post?) The fireplace was going, the wine was half-off...doesn't get much better, if you can stay awake that is. After an unsuccessful quest to find Thai food within walking distance, we ended up at Gui, which touts itself as a "Korean Japanese Bistro and Bar," that we found to be overpriced and slightly scene-y. Luckily we didn't overorder and had room to duck into one more sushi establishment, Yutaka. 100 times better.

Saturday:
We got up bright and early to tour seven houses up for sale (we're hoping to move out of our apartment and into a house in early April). They ranged from seriously outdated, seriously SCARY (as in insecure foundations and evidence of squatters) to absolutely charming. We've got our eye on one in particular just off Henderson Ave. We celebrated with an extra-large pizza at Rocco's, a BYOB pizza joint just up the street from our apartment. I had to put in a few hours at Molto, so Dan got the afternoon to himself. When I came home he was wearing a Santa hat and our living room window was decorated with Christmas lights, so the least I can say is that we was productive! That night we drove out to visit our friends Kate and Josh in Irving, just outside Dallas, who were hosting a game night. An evening of Apples to Apples, Battle of the Sexes, and Taboo ensued.

Sunday:
Another day at Molto - this time at the Preston Royal location. On my way to work I passed under the marathon runners on a Katy Trail pedestrian overpass (yesterday was the White Rock Marathon). After work we walked around Henderson Ave. and ducked in for a drink at Vickery Park just as the sun was setting. Did I mention it was 61 degrees here yesterday?!

Back to Work

I'm now gainfully employed, part-time, at Molto Formaggio, a cheese shop here in Dallas! There are two locations - one in Highland Park Village, and one in the Preston Royal shopping center. If you know me you know that cheese has been my favorite food since I worked at Murray's in New York. It's great to be back in the game! So, if you're in Dallas, come on by...

Dallas's Bishop Arts District

Today's Dallas adventure takes me to the Bishop Arts District, in Dallas's Oak Cliff neighborhood. I have returned with the promise to always bring out-of-towners (especially New Yorkers) here. It's one of the city's best pockets for eating, shopping, and walking around, all whilst supporting local small businesses.

My finds:

Zola's Everyday Vintage
Where I scored this sweet 70's handbag for 30 bucks!Bishop Street Market
The perfect spot for indulgent gifts, including an entire line of Thymes products, which, in case you don't know, includes those amazing-smelling Frasier fir candles, diffusers, and soaps.
Fete-ish
A bright assortment of giftable goodies, plus local art. I loved these wall plaques by Dallas artist T.G. O'Reilly.Make
Carries wares from crafty locals, like these snarky pillows, as well as hosts classes on everything from sewing to soap-making.

The Dallas Flea

Saturday was the debut of the Dallas Flea, a well-edited marketplace of locally made goods, dreamed up and executed by Dallas's own Brittany Edwards, the editor of Daily Candy's not-long-for-this-world Dallas edition. (Last week Daily Candy announced the closure of several of its editions, including ours) Don't worry, I spoke to Brittany on Saturday, and she's got plenty up her own sleeve.

A few of my favorite find at the Flea:

Leah Duncan's drawings, printed on
8 x 10 paper, tea towels,
pendants, and pins.













Petit Four: pillows made from coffee and grain sacks festooned with colorful appliqué and trimmings.








Pamela Michelle's
hand-painted wood jewelry.
Cooper by Courtney Warren: oh-so-dainty party dresses.

A Most Splendid Wednesday Night

It's hard to put together a series of events more perfect that the ones that unfolded last night. I have a wonderful husband, and I now I must gloat.

At quarter-to-5 we set off on a bike ride on the Katy Trail. But instead of arriving at Toulouse, the restaurant that I thought we were going to have a glass of wine at, we arrived at Spa Habitat. Surprise! Couples massage. And for no reason other than that it was Wednesday.

From there we stopped in at Cru and each got a flight of three wines and, of course, a cheese plate. We biked home, where we consumed even more wine and cheese (and, as luck would have it, I had a smidgen of Red Hawk, one of my all-time favorite soft and stinky cow's milk cheeses, left in the fridge - made even better by letting it get all oozy as it sat on a wood board by the fireplace. Mmmmmm.

To top it all off, Blood Simple, the Coen Brothers' first movie, had arrived via Netlflix. What's more romantic than a bottle of cabernet franc, a cheese board, and a knife planted in M. Emmet Walsh's hand by a 27-year-old Frances McDormand? For me, not much.,

An Evening at the Stoneleigh

Last night I got a behind-the-scenes tour of the Stoneleigh Hotel, a 1923 property that was restored to its glamorous Beaux Arts self just last year. It's actually a five-minute walk from my apartment. I met Kate Neu, the hotel's PR director, at the bar, which is the kind of place that exudes old-world romance à la the Oak Room. On one wall, a worn red velvet banquette with a back spiring to the ceiling begs for you to sit on it and sip and old-fashioned as you daintily swing your high heel and scan the room. Above the bar itself are several pretty beaded glass chandeliers. But the best part was learning from the bartender a few secrets about the place...You see, back in its heyday the owner lived in the penthouse, which he outfitted with all kinds of secret passageways and storage spots. He even hid his mistress in a room on the second floor. Sneaky, sneaky.

I got to walk through that 12th-floor penthouse, which is now used as an event space. 500-year-old wood panels ring an entire room, there's hand-painted wallpaper in the dining room, and cozy little library bar. Now, I just need someone to hold a function there (and invite me). Meanwhile, I can't wait to mynext take in-town visitor to the bar!

Testing Dallas's Public Transportation

Last week I took my first ride on a Dallas public bus. This was my second test of the city's public transportation system—the first being the time Dan and I rode the rails of the new Green Line train out to the State Fair, a trip that, despite the crowds, went rather smoothly.

Back to the bus ride...I was trying to get from my apartment in Uptown to 560, the restaurant housed in the big ball at the Hyatt hotel. I used the Trip Planner on DART's web site, which told me how to get from point A to point B. So far so good. I caught the bus on McKinney heading downtown and kept an eye out for my stop, Houston and Young Streets. Well, the bus never stopped at "Houston and Young," and pretty soon I was whizzing out of town on a bus bound for god knows where. After we got far enough away from downtwon that I realized I'd missed something, I asked the bus driver to let me off and I transferred to an uptown coach. Turns out I needed to get off at Union Station, which is located at Houston and Young. Would've been nice if the easy-to-use Trip Planner would've just mentioned that. So, I finally arrive back at Union Station, and I see the ball! Great! I walk towards it only to find a wide gap in the ground holding several north and southbound train tracks. Can't go over it, can't go under it...

Turns out I had to make a big arc around the station and down an underbridge ramp to get to my final destination. Great night to be wearing heels...Thanks again Dallas for being so pedestrian—and public transportation-friendly.

But I do have a soft spot for one mode of transport in Dallas's system: the M-Line trolleys that runs up and down McKinney. A.) They're free. B.) They're actually refurbished trolleys from the early 20th century—kind of like the historic trolley tours found in other cities, but without a driver spouting off factoids. Kind of makes me want to don my best feathered hat and head for a night on the town...

The Joy of Costless Furniture

Because there are things like garage sales and pickup trucks here in Dallas, the great bounty of free stuff you encounter stacked on the sidewalks of New York on trash night just doesn't exist. Or so I thought...

Yesterday on our way home from a walk around the neighborhood, we came across a staggering pile of discarded household items next to the trash chute on our floor—dishes, hanging pictures, a coat rack, two vintage-looking travel chests. It was too good to be true, so Dan suggested we wait around to make sure someone wasn't just stashing it there momentarily (a ridiculous suggestion, I know). Pretty soon a guy came in from outside who was clearly the one moving out. Of course we could have all that stuff, he beamed—he'd be thrilled to see it go to someone who needed it rather than to the dumpster. In fact, he had a big lounge chair and a tv stand that he wanted to unload, and would we have a look?





So, not only did we come home with a few pictures to hang on the wall and one of the chests, we got a fab new tv stand (that actually fits our tv), and a big comfy chair.

Later that night on our way back in from a bike ride, we discovered yet another surprise in front of our door—a wine rack filled with red wine. Must be that our new friend just didn't have a use for it at his new place? I think it was just an incredibly generous "Welcome to Dallas" gift.



Oh, and those free wine glasses I nabbed? I think I know where they came from now!

Dallas High and Low

Yesterday's Thrill No. 1:
Finding seven perfectly good wine glasses in a box outside the trash chute. Score!

Yesterday's Thrill No. 2:
Happy hour at Wolfgang Puck's Five Sixty, the slowly spinning restaurant in the big ball. From 5 - 7 on weekdays there's a menu of $5.60 appetizers and drinks, made better on this occasion by meeting two new friends there (moms don't worry—they weren't randoms. They work in public relations and I'd been in touch with them while I was at T+L).

Yesterday's Thrill No. 3:
Pizza and 25-cent wings (none for me, thanks) at new friends' favorite dive bar Bryan Street Tavern

Yesterday's Thrill No. 4:
Welcome-to-Dallas gift basket featuring wine, heavenly Neiman Marcus cookies (damn those things are good!), and a well-vetted insider's guide to Dallas, written by said new friends.

Hooray!

Death Penalty Watch

Anyone who knows me well knows that I’ve got an irrepressible interest in crime reporting and exoneration cases. So does the state of Texas—on both sides of the spectrum. And, as Texas prepares for a gubernatorial election amid a series of wrongful death cases, capital punishment is front and center.

Tomorrow, two prisoners who were wrongfully sentenced for a 1997 murder will be released in a case that’s unique because it wasn’t DNA that proved their innocence, but a confession by the murderer after the case had been reopened. Research done by the University of Texas at Arlington Innocence Network and the Actual Innocence Clinic at the University of Texas at Austin prompted officials to reassess the case.

The story behind the 2004 execution of Cameron Todd Willingham, who was convicted of starting the fire in his home that killed his three children, has also been in the news recently. According to the Dallas Morning News, “In the past five years, at least six arson experts have examined evidence in the Willingham case and found that there were no credible indications that the fire was intentionally set.“ Governor Rick Perry defends the investigation, maintaining that Willingham was guilty and even calling him "a monster."

The case prompted former governor Mark White, once a dogged death penalty supporter, to release a television commercial in which he apologized for the executions conducted during his term, fearing that some may have taken the lives of innocent people. "There is a very strong case to be made for a review of our death penalty statutes and even look at the possibility of having life without parole so we don’t look up one day and determine that we as the State of Texas have executed someone who is in fact innocent," he said.

Before I moved here, I’d been following the saga of Sharon Keller, the judge who closed her office at 5:00 on the dot despite desperate pleas from a team of lawyers working feverishly to draft an appeal that may have stopped the execution of Michael Richard. “It seemed that Richard’s attorneys were having some computer problems that were preventing them from getting their motion for a stay filed before the clerk’s office closed, at 5. They wanted to know if they could deliver it after-hours—5:15, 5:30 at the latest. Keller, who has been on the CCA since 1994 and the presiding judge since 2000, listened to Marty’s question. Under her leadership the court has been one of the more conservative in the country, developing a reputation, especially on the left, for rubber-stamping death sentences. Her reply would cement this: “We close at five.”

Since 1982, the death penalty in Texas has taken the lives of 441 people. According to the New York Times, "that includes 334 since the start of 1997, a period in which Texas accounted for 41 percent of the national total."

Biking the Big D

Presenting my new wheels...I got the bike for fifty bucks on Craigslist and it looks almost exactly like the bike I had when I was 12. See that hot pink? So neon, so 1995. So awesome.

Scenes from the State Fair of Texas

Big Tex

Believe it.



Here's what winning the watergun game gets you!

Tre, the 1,000-pound pig.

Nachos, Texas-style. Yum!

Wine, and a lesson in Texas politics

Say what you will, I have the best of luck meeting people in bars. Exhibit A: Looking for a glass of wine and some conversation, I walked over to Vino 100 last night, a wine bar and store just down the street. The place feels like a living room- there is a fireplace, a big couch, and some hearty wood dining tables. The bar itself only has a few stools, and the walls near it are lined with wine for sale. Over a glass of Viognier (and later, Sauvignon blanc), I got to know the bartender, Ryan, and the only other patron, Johanna, a professor of British literature at UT Arlington. My segue into saying that I just moved here was Ryan's comment on Thursday's New York Times article on the new Performing Arts Center. While the news made the front page of the Arts section, the writer just couldn't help but point out the reality of the arts scene in this city:

"Civic leaders have been trying to give this city a cultural heart for decades now, but the results have always felt more like a loose collection of unrelated buildings than a cohesive urban vision."

Having walked the Arts District just yesterday, I can attest that it does feel somewhat empty, especially compared to the stairs full of people that can be seen every day in front of the Met. And the area surrounding the two new buildings is anything but pedestrian-friendly. To walk there, you have to make a wide arc around the surrounding blocks, crisscrossing streets to avoid road construction and sidewalk closures. We'll see how things shape up in the coming months.

Turns out that my new bartender friend is an actor with a knack for Texas politics. Did you know that LBJ nicknamed his wife Lady Bird so that her initials would match his? Oh yeah, and his children also had the initials LBJ. Convenient (and narcissistic), huh?

During the course of the evening I was also introduced (in conversation, not in person) to Ann Richards, the charismatic former Texas governor known for her speech at the 1988 Democratic National Convention. My favorite line:

"Ginger Rogers did everything that Fred Astaire did. She just did it backwards and in high heels."

I also picked up a quote from Texas politician John Garner, FDR's vice president. In describing the job, Garner once said it's "not worth a bucket of warm spit."

Now that's Texan.

Dinner & A Movie

Now that we're mostly settled in, we're finally getting out of the house and out on the town. On Saturday we drove to Mockingbird Station, a big mixed-use development (though tastefully done with a boxy, warehouse feel) home to American Apparel, kidrobot, and the Angelika Film Center (our reason for going). We caught a late showing of A Serious Man. Next time, we'll go earlier to check out Trinity Hall, a lively pub with folks playing fiddle and trivia on Tuesday nights. We hear it's pretty cool.

On Sunday we drove to White Rock Lake, a motorboat-free body of water right in city, ringed by a cycling/running track.

Geisha House, the restaurant across the street that's housed in the same plaza as a sister apartment building to ours, offers 20 percent off to residents of our buildings, so we went! Read my review here.

As for Tex-Mex, we've been to Mia's. They say the brisket tacos reign supreme here; my cheese enchiladas were pretty damn good too. Tonight, we're off to Manny's.