Dallas Day Trip

Yesterday, while the rest of Texas was sinking into the sofa for the Cowboys game, we were driving north on 75 for the next in our series of day trips from Dallas. Our destination? McKinney, Texas, where, on the weekend before the third Monday of each month, hundreds of vendors set up shop at Third Monday Trade Days. Should you be in the market for a handcrafted oak cutting board, an old license plate, or a puppy —this is the place for you. And should you grow weary from browsing, a bounty of state-fair grub—corn dogs, turkey legs, tater tornados—is available for the noshing. We managed to keep to our shoestring budget, picking up only a $1 wall-mountable bottle opener and two wooden bowls ($3 each).

Shopped out, but with plenty of daylight hours still left to burn, we headed to McKinney's downtown square, where we encountered a historic village,

(surprise!) antique shops —and, thankfully, a wine bar where we could take a breather. Now, it was time for our final stop, Rockwall, abutting the shores of Lake Ray Hubbard—30-some-odd miles southeast. We ended our adventure at the Flying Saucer, a taphouse on the water.

Check out the photo montage!

An Evening at the Stoneleigh

Last night I got a behind-the-scenes tour of the Stoneleigh Hotel, a 1923 property that was restored to its glamorous Beaux Arts self just last year. It's actually a five-minute walk from my apartment. I met Kate Neu, the hotel's PR director, at the bar, which is the kind of place that exudes old-world romance à la the Oak Room. On one wall, a worn red velvet banquette with a back spiring to the ceiling begs for you to sit on it and sip and old-fashioned as you daintily swing your high heel and scan the room. Above the bar itself are several pretty beaded glass chandeliers. But the best part was learning from the bartender a few secrets about the place...You see, back in its heyday the owner lived in the penthouse, which he outfitted with all kinds of secret passageways and storage spots. He even hid his mistress in a room on the second floor. Sneaky, sneaky.

I got to walk through that 12th-floor penthouse, which is now used as an event space. 500-year-old wood panels ring an entire room, there's hand-painted wallpaper in the dining room, and cozy little library bar. Now, I just need someone to hold a function there (and invite me). Meanwhile, I can't wait to mynext take in-town visitor to the bar!

Dallas High and Low

Yesterday's Thrill No. 1:
Finding seven perfectly good wine glasses in a box outside the trash chute. Score!

Yesterday's Thrill No. 2:
Happy hour at Wolfgang Puck's Five Sixty, the slowly spinning restaurant in the big ball. From 5 - 7 on weekdays there's a menu of $5.60 appetizers and drinks, made better on this occasion by meeting two new friends there (moms don't worry—they weren't randoms. They work in public relations and I'd been in touch with them while I was at T+L).

Yesterday's Thrill No. 3:
Pizza and 25-cent wings (none for me, thanks) at new friends' favorite dive bar Bryan Street Tavern

Yesterday's Thrill No. 4:
Welcome-to-Dallas gift basket featuring wine, heavenly Neiman Marcus cookies (damn those things are good!), and a well-vetted insider's guide to Dallas, written by said new friends.

Hooray!

Wine, and a lesson in Texas politics

Say what you will, I have the best of luck meeting people in bars. Exhibit A: Looking for a glass of wine and some conversation, I walked over to Vino 100 last night, a wine bar and store just down the street. The place feels like a living room- there is a fireplace, a big couch, and some hearty wood dining tables. The bar itself only has a few stools, and the walls near it are lined with wine for sale. Over a glass of Viognier (and later, Sauvignon blanc), I got to know the bartender, Ryan, and the only other patron, Johanna, a professor of British literature at UT Arlington. My segue into saying that I just moved here was Ryan's comment on Thursday's New York Times article on the new Performing Arts Center. While the news made the front page of the Arts section, the writer just couldn't help but point out the reality of the arts scene in this city:

"Civic leaders have been trying to give this city a cultural heart for decades now, but the results have always felt more like a loose collection of unrelated buildings than a cohesive urban vision."

Having walked the Arts District just yesterday, I can attest that it does feel somewhat empty, especially compared to the stairs full of people that can be seen every day in front of the Met. And the area surrounding the two new buildings is anything but pedestrian-friendly. To walk there, you have to make a wide arc around the surrounding blocks, crisscrossing streets to avoid road construction and sidewalk closures. We'll see how things shape up in the coming months.

Turns out that my new bartender friend is an actor with a knack for Texas politics. Did you know that LBJ nicknamed his wife Lady Bird so that her initials would match his? Oh yeah, and his children also had the initials LBJ. Convenient (and narcissistic), huh?

During the course of the evening I was also introduced (in conversation, not in person) to Ann Richards, the charismatic former Texas governor known for her speech at the 1988 Democratic National Convention. My favorite line:

"Ginger Rogers did everything that Fred Astaire did. She just did it backwards and in high heels."

I also picked up a quote from Texas politician John Garner, FDR's vice president. In describing the job, Garner once said it's "not worth a bucket of warm spit."

Now that's Texan.