Home Sweet Dallas

And the Eat Goes On

2010-09-25T16:09:00.000-07:00

Shiitake Mushroom Flatbread at Dish

Wine Tasting at Dish

Yesterday's food tour continued with an epic evening that included stops at three Dallas restaurants. (Lucky me, again!) First, Dragonfly at the Hotel Zaza. Though the restaurant is between executive chefs right now, the kitchen seamlessly pulled off three of its most popular dishes: fried wonton tacos filled with raw ahi tuna, crispy calamari served on a bed of sweet chili vinaigrette-tossed greens, and a sampling of steak and beurre rouge that was unanimously deemed excellent (I didn't try it of course). Most people know Dragonfly for its cocktails, so it's no surprise that each course came paired with a drink - peach jalapeno martini; a Za Collins, made with Hendrick's gin; and my personal favorite, some delicious concoction that combined Belvedere vodka and tequila with grapefruit juice and basil. (I have to figure out the name of this - I will order it the next time I'm here...)

Next up, a wine-paired tasting at Dish, the posh spot on Oak Lawn whose "deliciously simple" fare is served in a sexy modern dining room. First up, a trio of flatbreads (the one topped with Denison, Texas-sourced shiitake mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, pesto, local goat cheese, and arugula was my favorite); an appetizer of prosciutto, parmigiano reggiano, mandarin oranges, and fennel; and finally, a miniature surf and turf - barbecue braised short rib and a sea scallop served on a bed of roasted corn, cous cous, bacon, and poached egg. Dish's desert course was a petite tasting of four favorites: the smoked pecan brownie, warm banana cake with salted caramel sauce, chocolate mousse, and lemon ice box pie, served with a Hungarian dessert wine called tokaji.

Nonna

Though my body would have been happy to end there, we had one more stop to make - Nonna, winner of D magazine's Best of Big D 2010: Best Italian Restaurant. Here, the food took center stage in this simple, cozy restaurant in Highland Park. Silky burrata cheese with panzanella and caponata (a grilled eggplant salad) was served with garlicy grilled toast points, followed by lobster ravioli in a bowl of lobster broth. A lobster ravioli to please purists, the delicate pasta pillows were so soft you barely had to chew, and the generous hunks of lobster meat inside weren't hidden amongst any form of cheesy, chewy filling. Pappardelle bolognese, a seafood stew, and papperdelle with braised rabbit -- all served family style --followed. A small glass of Negroamaro provided the perfect partner to this deliciously handcrafted Tuscan meal. I ended the night blissfully satiated, with a promise to myself that I'd come back with my sweet, deserving, husband.

A Food Tour of Dallas

2010-09-24T09:58:00.000-07:00

The spread in Kent Rathbun's kitchen

Lucky me! This morning I got to have breakfast with one of Dallas's most lauded chefs, Kent Rathbun, at his family's personal, 19th-floor home inside the Heights at Park Lane. It's the first stop of many I'll be making this weekend during a food tour of the city organized by Texas Toast Culinary Tours. After feasting on Kent's freshly prepared buffet of Moet mimosas and breakfast tacos (scrambled eggs, pork stew, three types of salsa, cotija cheese, and seranno chile-infused sour cream), we sat around on the Rathbuns' sprawling terrace and chatted about his role in the upcoming Super Bowl. Being Dallas's culinary representative for the Taste of the NFL for the past ten years, he's of course highly involved with Super Bowl XLIV's event, taking place right here in DFW. Some of the country's best chefs will get together to prepare an unwieldy feast to raise money for the North Texas Food Bank and the Tarrant Area Food Bank. (At $600 a head, that shouldn't take too long.) Chef Rathbun also talked about his upcoming tailgate cookoff in New York - he'll be traveling there with Fort Worth chef Tim Love when the Cowgirls play the Giants on November 14 to go head-to-head on the grill with celebrity chef Bobby Flay.

Chef Rathbun, on his balcony

The group enjoying an al fresco breakfast

From there, the tour took me on an escorted jaunt through the new Whole Foods on Park Lane, where executive chef Sam Dickey treated us to a sampling of raw food and fresh-squeezed juice from the store's impressive raw food bar. A brownie dipped in pureed cashew cream wholly proved that there's really no need for an oven when preparing "baked" goods. And I could almost feel the last remnants of my cold magically dissipating with every sip of carrot-cucumber-apple juice. Yum Yum.

Raw food at Whole Foods, Park Lane

Heirloom tomatoes at Whole Foods, Park Lane

Apple season at Whole Foods, Park Lane

The wall of beer at Whole Foods, Park Lane

Weekend Getaway: The Natural State

2010-09-14T09:41:00.000-07:00

As we drove away from Dallas and officially became "en route to Arkansas," Dan and I wondered out loud, What is Arkansas known for? We'd never met someone from Arkansas, and the only claim to fame we knew of was Bill Clinton's upbringing. (It must be tough to broadcast a state identity when your downstairs neighbor is Texas.) A little mobile Googling provided some insight: Arkansas is known as The Natural State. Great news for us, as our Jeep was loaded with camping gear, and we were headed to Hot Springs National Park and picturesque Lake Ouachita.

Five hours and one Taco Bell stop later, we arrived at Lake Ouachita State Park to check into our $11-per-night campsite. This being Labor Day weekend, it was completely packed (lucky for us, Dan had thought ahead to make a reservation). After setting up the tent, we walked to the park's beach and the on-site Three Sisters Springs - said to cure everything from diabetes to dysentery. (Scout sipped all three cold streams of water and experienced some pep in his step, but that was probably due mostly his newly found freedom in the wild.) We made it back to camp just before sunset to heat up two cans of Amy's vegetarian chili on our kerosene stove, sit around the campfire, and be blissfully free of all distractions.

The next day's adventure led us too Hot Springs National Park. If you think breathtaking canyons and peaks when you think national park, think again. A tourist town has been built around this preserved plot, and it all started some 200 years ago when word got out that these steamy waters had healing powers. Bath houses and hotels were built at a frantic pace, and folks came in from all over. While most of that kind of tourism has died off (though you can still take a hot spring bath), the town remains - and has been filled with shops and restaurants. The preserved Fordyce Bath House on Central Avenue, which now houses the Park's visitor center, is a great place to get a backgrounder -- and see how these things were set up. Not settling for a visit to a national park without at least some out-of-the-car, off-the-sidewalk- exploration, Dan found us a nice hour-and-a-half hike through the woods. We even stopped by a cold spring-fed spigot to fill our gallon water jug.

On our last day we rose early to score a lumberjack breakfast at the closest diner, the Home Plate Cafe (holy heavenly hash brown casserole!) before tackling the four-mile Caddo Bend Trail which weaves a circle around Lake Ouachita State Park. It was our first hike with Scout, and after battling the leash for all of three minutes, we lit him free. Being the perfectly well-behaved beast that he is, he made a habit of running 30 feet ahead, stopping to look back, and then doing it all over again. Our city dog even got his feet wet when we took a detour to a secluded shore.

That's One Huge Notepad

2010-08-18T15:10:00.000-07:00

Check our latest DIY project (and yes, I have to admit, Dan did most of the work on this one)! It's a huge chalkboard we made out of a piece of smooth plywood and molding we cut and stained to make a frame. It measures 4' x 2'9" and we hung it in the hallway between our kitchen and back living room.

I'm a big note taker and to-do list maker. And I couldn't be more thrilled to have one huge surface to write down all my thoughts (most of which, at this juncture, are places I want to go and restaurants I want to try).

All you need is a smooth piece of plywood, some chalkboard paint, and a frame. We made our frame but you can easily use an old picture frame and make any size board!

Dallas's Best Kept Secret

2010-08-17T07:43:00.000-07:00

We've figured out that to survive August in Dallas you have to a.) stay inside, b.) travel to high elevation on the east or west coast, or c.) situate yourself in a swimming pool and stay there. Having done both a and b in recent weeks, we opted for option c last weekend. Dan had heard about a public pool tucked into the woods of Dallas's Lakewood neighborhood. It was called The Fraternal Order of Eagles. The name alone got me. The FOE is a national nonprofit that raises money for local causes. Rumor has it members like to party. For an admission price of seven dollars each, we we were in!

The best way to describe this place is a VFW with a big freaking pool. I can't tout the merits of FOE enough: well drinks served in big red solo cups for $3.25, ice cold Lone Star cans for $2.25, and fresh-grilled burgers and deep-fried French fries for the amount of spare change you have in your pocket right now. If you've ever been an apartment complex pool in Uptown, this place is the opposite. Everyone is sipping a cold one and having a lovely time, but there's no parade of teensy bikinis, gelled hair, and stilettos on the pool deck. You'll see lots of couples, lots of tattoos, and a handful of kids. Music plays on a loudspeaker and the selection is beyond eclectic: think Viva Las Vegas followed by Rhianna.

I borrowed this photo from a reviewer on yelp.com. Read the full review here.

Follow Me Here

2010-08-11T12:34:00.000-07:00

Big News! As of today, I'm a guest blogger for LHO Design and Consign, a great new shop in Dallas's Design District. LHO stands for Lake House Outfitters, so if you know me, it's a natural pairing. I'll be writing about being new to Dallas, adventures in homeownership, and most importantly, discovering the best spots to snag great deals on furniture and decorations for the home in and around Dallas. Check out my first post:

http://www.lakehouseoutfitters.blogspot.com/

Great Art, Great Friend, Great Cause

2010-08-10T15:42:00.000-07:00

I've always taken issue with the generic, mass-produced prints you can buy at Target and Michael's. Sure, they look pretty on the wall, and they can totally bring a room together, but wouldn't you rather hang something in your house that tells a story?

Back in June, Dan and I went to the wedding of one of Dan's former roommates, John W. Tomac, in New York. In addition to working as an illustrator at Barron's, the financial magazine, he's also an accomplished long-distance runner. And on September 22, 2009, he was diagnosed with chronic myelogenous leukemia. If you've ever met John, you know that not even cancer would get in his way (he got married on June 18, just got back from a honeymoon in Spain, and will be running the New York City Marathon this fall). In addition to running 26 miles to help raise money for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society, he's selling prints of his own illustrations on imagekind and donating 100 percent of the profit to the Society.

It was a no-brainer for us to purchase a couple—a personal friend, a great cause, and lots of empty walls in our new house. Plus, they're a little nod to our New York roots. We particularly love the Ebbets Field one—before we moved to Dallas in October, we lived just a few blocks away from where the historic baseball field once stood.

You'll get a much better view of these two prints—and many more—here johnwtomac.imagekind.com Or, support John's marathon efforts by donating here beatcancer.johnwtomac.com

My Home in the Catskills

2010-08-03T11:06:00.000-07:00

Since last Tuesday, Dan and I have assumed the role of doting innkeepers at C atskill Lodge, the bed and breakfast in Windham, New York, that we co-own with Dan's brothers. (The front-porch photo above was taken on our wedding day last September.) While I have to admit that after six days of egg-frying, pancake-flipping, and laundry, we're ready to be free of the chores that come with a seven-room house filled with guests—we both share a great love for this place. Built in 1893 and filled with furniture and decorations that span the last century, it's homey, charming, and absolutely unique. And while the role of host naturally comes with early mornings and endless housekeeping, it also gives us a chance to meet new people and explore the breathtaking natural landscape. In the last seven days we've chatted with folks from as far away as Belgium and China, picked produce and prepared meals from the garden, and sparked up a bonfire in the backyard every single night. Then there's the comforting, unplanned moments—like watching an eight-year-old's eyes light up with excitement in front of the crackling campfire, or Dan stopping in the middle of his chores to play a song on the antique piano. Of course, we've also had our share of adventure vacation activities, from floating the Esopus River to scaling a 3800-foot peak. The two of us met here. And then we got married here. Now we're just soakin' it all in...

My NYC Find

2010-07-01T08:14:00.000-07:00

Blame it on the fact that I lived there for seven years—sometimes I've just got an eye on the businesses and services people who live in New York actually use rather than the effortless glitz the city portrays to outsiders. On my last visit to NYC (two weeks ago), I was drawn in by the gleaming wide windows of a sparkling new Duane Reade drugstore on 39th and Madison. The store sports a complete redesign—the antithesis of what drugstore shoppers assume about the omnipresent pharmacy and toiletries market. Rather than flickering florescent lighting and disgruntled employees, the space exudes a Sephora-like aesthetic, right down to an entire section devoted to pricey makeup. The only shopping spree I had while in the city happened right here...

Me, and Modern Luxury Dallas

2010-06-04T05:44:00.000-07:00

In recent weeks (well, months), I've been working with an editor at Modern Luxury magazine's Dallas edition. I've got three clips in the May/June 2010 issue—a roundup of luxe lakeside resorts, updates on Austin's best spas, and my picks of the best dog-friendly restaurant patios in Dallas. Check 'em out on my web site!

Where Have I Been? (version 2.0)

2010-06-03T13:04:00.000-07:00

My window shade inspiration...

You know you're an inconsistent blogger when you go to type a title (Where Have I Been?), and your computer autofills the text. I was embarrassed today at a lunch meeting when the person I was with said she had been reading my blog, because it's been over a month since my last post! The positive news is that I'm negligence doesn't stem from sheer laziness—I've actually been slammed with (paid) writing assignments! Most of the time, I've been right here....

(with the exception of last week's five-night furlough on Lake Hartwell.) And even thouugh I just finished up a huge project for T+L, there are three more assignments in my queue. Little did I know when I bought that antique green chair from Gypsy Wagon down the street that my bum would be planted in it for so many hours a day. But I am soo not complaining!

Before and After, Part One of TBD

2010-05-01T08:56:00.000-07:00

Today marks one month since we closed on our house. Not surprisingly, the inside is still coming together, slowly. Our motivating factor right now is the party we're hosting Sunday afternoon. Here's a look at the bedroom, which I brightened up with a coat of turquoise paint and some white furniture.

Before:

After:

Are You Going to Scarborough Faire...

2010-04-23T10:24:00.000-07:00

Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme...

Okay, those are lyrics to a Simon & Garfunkel song. The Scarborough Faire as we know it in Texas, is a Renaissance Festival held for eight consecutive weekends in Waxahachie, every spring since 1981. Last weekend we took Dan's parents for some serious in-law entertainment. If you've never been to a Renaissance Festival (I hadn't), it's a feast for the eyes—and the belly, if you're into giant roasted turkey legs.

Here, some photo highlights:

A Care Package for a Hurt Hand

2010-04-14T11:07:00.000-07:00

As some of you know, I had a little run-in with the neighbor's dog (let's just say the dog won), worsened by the fact that I ended up spending six hours in the city hospital's ER waiting to get stitched up. Though I'm mostly healed now (it's been a week and two days), a get-well box arrived for me today. Inside it? A mom-made care package, just like the old college days. It contained a few things to keep me busy—a cookbook, a box of organic carrot cake mix, and a Price Is Right board game—but the best part was the customized first aid kit, which, if I know my mom, was made to poke fun at me just a little bit. At least next time we'll have everything we need to tend to household accidents—right down to the manual on how to care for everything from splinters to impalements. Party on!

American Antiques

2010-03-24T06:18:00.000-07:00

There is a roadside antiques mart on Highway 67, in in a little place called Rainbow, Texas. A few weeks ago, en route home from a visit to Fossil Rim in Glen Rose, I stopped in. Here's my bounty, all of it purchased for just under 80 bucks. It jibes perfectly with the found furniture / antique-y / cottage-feel that I envision our new house will take on. The place is called American Country Mall (ignore the political propaganda on the right side of the page!). Now for my finds:

Kree-Mee Yellow American Spread

I couldn't resist this case for early Velveeta-like "cheese"

Piece of An Old Door

&

Rough Wood Frame

I love the key that's attached in the center of this worn out door panel.

I replaced the photo and mat in the frame.

"Hopeless" Hope Chest

It needs a good scrubbing - and a new fabric lining.

I'll mount it on the wall and use it as a storage cabinet, or set

in on the floor and use it as chest.

Pretty Thursday

2010-03-18T16:51:00.000-07:00

Today was a very good day in ALI LAND. Anticipating two full days of work at Molto Formaggio, I vowed to make the most of a sunny, 65-degree Thursday. After a run on the Katy Trail and tackling the obligatory chores at home, I headed to my soon-to-be-home, Henderson Avenue. Starting at the Wooden House and moving eastward, I ventured in and out of all the shops I'd never been in (and some that I had) between 75 and Bonita. Then I headed north to the new Whole Foods on Park Lane and discovered that my go-to bottle of screwtop red not only earned 90 points from Wine Spectator but is also going for a mere 10 bucks a pop (I usually pay 12 at Sigel's). Get in the know: it's the 2006 Monte Antico, a Sangiovese-Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Tuscany. Oh, and the bulb that my grandmother gave me two years ago has bloomed into a sexy trifecta of flowers. Now, for the photo montage:

I'm The Chill Bride

2010-03-16T17:58:00.000-07:00

Last weekend at our friends Chris and Elena's wedding in Belleville, New Jersey (number one of five weddings we'll attend this year), we got to catch up with our friends Mary and John, who are getting hitched in New York in June (yahoo! another excuse to go back!). Since they got engaged, Mary's been blogging. Turns out she posted about our wedding! The title of the post? Lessons on Being a Chill Bride. Yes, it's true—all of the mishaps she tallied actually happened on our special day. And she didn't even mention our cake leeeeeaning over—the result of the cake baker having to slam on the brakes en route. With a wedding underway, you don't really have an option other than to roll with it. I had a blast!

My Yellow Wedding: Mary's blog
All you brides, do yourself a favor and follow it.
She's got some great tips!

And for our wedding album, click here.

Living La Vida Local (and Grass-Fed)

2010-03-10T17:38:00.000-08:00

Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms, from the movie Food Inc.

(this guy rocks!)

As you know (or maybe you don't) I haven't eaten meat in 14 years. I began eating seafood a year ago, and I do it responsibly, only ordering and buying fish that's not over-fished. (the easiest way to do this is to carry around Monterey Bay Aquarium's pocket-sized safe list, which you can print out here).

I recently watched Food Inc., which was was nominated for Best Documentary Feature in the Academy Awards. And even though I'm 100% nuts about the seafood I put into my body and the beef, chicken, and pork that my husband buys, and I avoid high fructose corn syrup and processed foods as best I can, I confess, I don't always make the trek to the farmers market for fresh produce.

Seeing the movie reminded me about the effects mass-produced meat and produce has on our bodies and on the globe. Even more, it uncovers what's wrong with the industry of mass-produced food. It's all fresh on my mind, so I'll try to make it fresh on yours too.

There are a number of respected books on the issue. I'm ashamed to say that I've only read Fast Food Nation - the others are The Omnivore's Dilemma and The China Study. A third, more recently published book that's on my reading list is Growing Good Things to Eat in Texas, which profiles eleven Texas farm families.

Today, while reading Edible Dallas & Fort Worth magazine I discovered even more resources:

Eat Wild is fantastic place to source your next food purchase. It's "the source for safe, healthy, natural and nutritious grass-fed beef, lamb, goats, bison, poultry, pork, dairy and other wild edibles," and will lead you to responsible farmers.

Rusty's Grass-Finished Food is a grass-fed beef farm in East Texas.

Sloans Creek Farm raises grass-fed beef, lamb, goat, and pastured pork, 75 miles north of Dallas.

Right here in the city, Dan goes to VonGeertsem Butcher Shoppe on Oak Lawn Ave. Greg, the butcher is a jolly fellow who will hook you up and answer all your questions (and supply you with some damn good steak, according to Dan).

Of course, there's the Dallas Farmers Market, and I swear I will go there more often. And up until last fall, Celebration Restaurant had a farmers market (it was stopped by the city due to some crazy regulations - follow that story here).

But you can get more local that growing your own greens, which we've been dying to do. After the move on April 1, we finally can!

World's Best Brunch?

2010-03-10T09:01:00.000-08:00

My very good friend Krystal, just back from a long weekend in New Orleans with her beau, emailed this morning to tell me about her trip. It was everything you expect from a dreamy weekend: "saw some jazz, went to a museum, took a cemetery tour, walked a lot, and relaxed" plus one delightful superlative: "We ate realllllly good food (including the best brunch I have EVER had)"

The spot was Dante's. From Krystal: You take the St. Charles streetcar all the way to the end. It was delicious - we had the best iced coffee, biscuits, and shrimp and grits. Now, if I can just get to New Orleans!

I'm a long-time fan of brunch, especially the under-$20 sort that starts around 1 p.m. and includes endless champagne. In New York, our friend Meg would coordinate a group most every Sunday for hours of boozing over frittata and French toast. I used to keep a list of her favorite spots, but (dang!) I lost it. (Meg, an update, please!).

In Dallas, I've done brunch at Breadwinners (wesome upper level patio; super-savory eats; baskets of fresh-baked goodies; slightly overpriced drinks) and Nick & Sam's Grill (reasonably priced entrees; $6 bottomless blood orange mimosas). In San Antonio I experienced the most beautiful and most decadent brunch buffet I've ever witnessed at the Omni La Mansion Del Rio. Seriously, I have never seen so much food. You'd think overflowing bounty would translate to poorly prepared fare. Au contraire. It's some of the best fare I've tasted, and the spread goes way beyond typical brunch fare (eyeball the menu here.) The champers is unlimited, and, yes, it's the good stuff!

Friends here and afar, what's your favorite brunch spot?

Brazil Trip: My Favorite Foods (and Drink)

2010-02-23T16:25:00.000-08:00

Romeo and Juliet, minus the Juliet

What's travel without the discovery of new foods? My favorites from the trip are specific to Minas Gerais: 1.) Pão de queijo (aka cheese bread): tiny rolls served fresh from the oven with a dollop of melted cheese baked inside, 2.) Tutu à Mineira: mashed cooked beans, served hot alongside rice and fresh vegetables, 3.) Romeo and Juliet, a dessert consisting of a wedge of mild cheese served with guava puree and dulce de leche, and 4.) Fried coconut served from a street cart: freshly fried and still piping hot. It's called beijo-something, which translates to hot kiss. Mmmm.

Pão de queijo

Tutu à Mineira

Fried Coconut

My favorite drink, of course, was the caipirinha, the country's most famous cocktail, made with cachaça and muddled sugar and limes.

Brazil Trip: A Lovely Hotel

2010-02-23T16:04:00.000-08:00

In Ouro Preto I was treated to a stay at the Solar do Rosário, a 170-year-old, 41-room hotel that I became absolutely enchanted by. There are open entryways and windows around every corner, and tons of places to escape—little tables, chaises, daybeds—both indoors and out. The place is a sanctuary for secluded romance—unfortunately, I was traveling solo!

The hotel overlooks Nossa Senhora do Rosário (Rosário Church), one of the most interesting examples of the local Brazilian Baroque architecture because of its back-story: it was finished in 1792 after 30 years of construction by slaves who needed a safe haven for worshiping.

But the best part is rooms here go for 400 reais, which (right now) is about $217 USD. Now that's affordable luxury.

Brazil Trip: Inhotim, An Art Lover's Paradise

2010-02-23T15:40:00.001-08:00

The attraction that's garnered the most international attention in Minas Gerais,

Brazil

, in recent years is the Instituto Cultural Inhotim, a sprawling contemporary art museum that's been set up on 3,000 acres of lush, landscaped earth.

I spent a couple of hours there. But you could spend days.

And, according to the latest issue of Budget Travel, it's the trip of a lifetime.

My two favorite installations: The Forty Part Motet, by Janet Cardiff; and Através by Brazilian artist Cildo Meireles. The Forty Part Motet is an open-air room in which forty speakers, raised to average human height, are placed in large circle. Each plays a singular voice. The collective sound is that of “Spem in Alium," a choral composition written by Thomas Tallis in 1573. Hearing each voice clearly as you walk around the room in front of each speaker, then standing in the middle and hearing it as a whole is staggering. The sound—resonating from the breezy sun-filled white room—is almost empyreal. I filmed it on my Flip: the video is shaky but the sound is good!

As much as Motet is auditory, Através is visual. It's also interactive. Visitors are invited to enter the installation by walking on the glass shards that coat the floor. Those shards (yes, I walked on them—in shoes) are one of the many barriers you're meant to cross as you make your way to the center of the installation, a huge cellophane ball (other hurdles include barbed wire and a shower curtain). See my video of the docent explaining it here.

Brazil Trip: Undiscovered Ouro Preto

2010-02-23T15:12:00.000-08:00

Baroque architecture. Simple, sherbert-colored houses dotting the hillside. Passport (and visa) required. . .

Last week I was in the Minas Gerais state of Brazil, in the southeast part of the country, about 400 miles north of Sao Paolo. Before I was invited on the trip I had never heard of it, even though it's anchored by Brazil's third largest city, Belo Horizonte. But that's what makes it great: the tourists flock to buzzing Sao Paulo and Rio, leaving this place untrammelled and wholly authentic. (Practice your Portuguese, or travel with a guide!)

Minas Gerais literally mean general mines. The cities here sprouted up in the 1700s after the discovery of gold. The economy was built on mining; and sparkling Baroque churches soon became showpieces of the local bounty. Though flying in and out of the capital city of Belo Horizonte (translation: beautiful horizon) gave me the chance to tour the city, my favorite part of the trip was the old mining village of Ouro Preto, where many of those churches still stand.

Adventures Ahoy!

2010-02-22T12:38:00.000-08:00

I'm slowly coming off of a whirlwind couple of weeks of traveling and entertaining—and I don't mind a bit that I've spent more days in a hotel or guest room bed than in my own. But, I would like to apologize for being an unfaithful blogger.

The past 19 days have included a trip to Brazil, a weekend at a new resort in San Antonio, a couple of days entertaining family in Dallas—which included stops at the Dallas Aquarium, Fossil Rim wildlife park, and the Great Wolf Lodge in Grapevine—and a night at a new friend's house on Lake Cypress Springs in Mount Vernon, Texas. Oh yes, and then there was that blizzard in Dallas that virtually shut the city down for 24 hours. And the handful of days at the cheese shop and nights out on the town. Oh! And I was touring the Cowgirl Hall of Fame and Museum in Fort Worth just this morning...

The good news is I'm going to be up against some serious free time in the coming days and will have some idle hours in which I can write. That's if I don't fill them up with more adventures....

Where Have I Been?

2010-02-10T08:55:00.000-08:00

Wondering where I've been?

Here's a photo. Details to come!

Dallas Day Trip

2010-02-03T09:31:00.000-08:00

You know that sadness that hangs in the air after a house-full of out-of-town friends departs for the airport? Yeah, me too. That's why, just after they all took off, I did too. In typical Sunday fashion, Dan and I went on an adventure. Destination: Garland, Texas.

To those of you in the Dallas area, Garland is just another suburb. Sure, it has its series of stripmalls and stoplights, but do a little digging (or just read this blog...) and you'll find some gems. Garland happens to hold several superlatives and oddities: Texas's biggest municipal golf course, a nickel arcade, the only tract of land in the world where eight types of oak trees grow together in the same ecosystem, a New York pizzeria, and (!) a Mennonite restaurant.

Our first stop was Firewheel, Texas's largest public golf course. Because it's the off-season, you can golf for next-to-nothing, especially on weekdays after 3 p.m. But, it was freezing outside, so we opted to hit a bucket of balls at the driving range ($7), which shot the husband's happiness level through the roof. From there, we drove 2.5 miles to Spring Creek Park Preserve, an old-growth forest with a well-maintained walking path that skirts a limestone-lined creek.

What better place to go after a brief stint of nature-inspired solitude than a nickel arcade? Upon entry, Nickelrama appeared to be just like any other arcade—teeming with giddy children, flashing lights and screeching sound effects emanating from rows of video games and Skee-Ball consoles, several Disney cartoon-themed birthday parties simultaneously underway. The difference is that here you pay to play in nickels, and the most expensive attraction—a roller coaster ride simulator—costs 6 nickels, or thirty cents.

In need of sustenance after the hour of intense gaming, we went next door to Sali's Pizza and Pasta, which we had read about on Yelp before we took off. First of all, the cheese slice I ordered was the closest thing I've had to New York pizza since I moved to Dallas. I'm talking about the kind of New York pizza that's cheap, greasy, piping hot, and available 24 hours a day at pizzerias in the city. (for the record, I've had good pizza in Dallas, but it's good in a different over-topped or brick oven-baked kind of way) Back to my cheese slice: it cost $1.45. Reason No. 2 why I liked it so much. In a somewhat bizarre turn of events, Dan and I weren't in the mood to drink, but the smoky wood bar in the back was serving drafts for $2.25 and pouring wine for $2.95 a glass. Pitchers were $6.95. Reason No. 3.

While we were leaving the shopping center a previously unheard of establishment caught my eye: Marlo's House, An Authentic Mennonite Restaurant. Unfortunately we were full of pizza, and the place was closed, but holy smokes, what a find! Marlo's bills itself as "the finest Mennonite restaurant in all of North Texas," also admitting that "actually, we are the only Mennonite restaurant in North Texas that we are aware of." The menu is decidedly meat-and-potatoes-ish, but with a few surprises, including the indulgent Canadian delicacy poutine, a plate of french fries smothered with gravy. All I know is next time I'm jonesin' for a bowl of Wareniki or a platter of Perogies, I'm heading to Garland...

Damn Good Pickles!

2010-02-02T10:06:00.000-08:00

I cracked open the first jar of my very own Damn Good Pickles over the weekend, and (drumroll, please) they were actually damn good! Now I can officially vouch for the accuracy and deliciousness of this recipe. Next up: spicy dills!

Home Sweet Henderson

2010-01-28T10:41:00.000-08:00

Dan and I are in the midst of buying our first house, and we're smack in the middle of that exhausting time known as the "option period." (Translation = decisions, negotiations, and paperwork, paperwork, paperwork.) So it was especially uplifting to read D Magazine editor-in-chief Wick Allison's editor's letter in the February 2009 issue, which touted the burgeoning vibrancy of Knox-Henderson, the Dallas neighborhood in which we're buying.

For those of you who aren't familiar with it: Knox-Henderson is one avenue. On the west side of 75, it's called Knox; on the east side, it's called Henderson. The west side is anchored by some big-name retailers (Pottery Barn, Crate & Barrel, and Apple among them). The east side has more of a local feel—restaurants with breezy street-facing patios, well-curated antique shops, a wood-fired pizza joint, a wine bar—you get the idea.

We've liked Knox-Henderson since we landed here in October—especially the Henderson side. While there are still sleepy areas between the bustling pockets of the street, the pedestrian-friendly thoroughfare carries a local vibe and reminds us of our old home, Brooklyn. But it's not one of those city-sponsored "business improvement" districts or pre-planned outdoor shopping malls. Wick’s letter emphasizes the "organic change" that's happening in the neighborhood:

"Organic change—the kind that isn’t planned or city sponsored but advances little by little in fits and starts—always presents a deeper meaning if we try to grasp the forces behind it. In this case, the force is market demand by younger people. Knox-Henderson runs 1.4 miles from the Katy Trail to Ross Avenue, changing from one name to the other as it crosses over Central Expressway. Only a decade ago, Knox Street was a rather tattered shopping street, and Henderson was the northern boulevard of the lower East Dallas barrio, lined with taquerias and beer joints and a Mexican grocery store. But the definition is changing. Urban infill today attracts a younger, more ethnically mixed crowd. The change on Henderson Avenue is patchy, but as the apartments begin to fill, we could be seeing the harbinger of a new lower East Dallas. Unlike a suburban housing development, it won’t pop up overnight. But with more young people wanting a less expensive version of Uptown, my guess is that in a decade, lower East Dallas will be one of the hottest spots in town."

Thanks for your insight, Wick. It feels good to be part of 'hood. Cool photos here.

Matchmaking at Molto Formaggio

2010-01-25T10:12:00.000-08:00

When it's slow at Molto, I get to play mad food scientist, slicing off bits of any cheese I want and pairing them up with any of a number of already-open honeys, oils, confits, and pestos at my own discretion. With so many fantastic ingredients, it is rare that I make a bad match. Still, it's always fun to have some guidance. Luckily I was working alongside a savvy cheese monger on recent such shift, who recommended I top my slice of yesterday's baguette with Roquefort and Williams Pear & White Wine Confit. Oh. My. God. All you lovers of blue cheese, all you lovers of the mouthwatering combination of sweet and salt—get in the car, drive to your nearest cheese shop (hopefully that's Molto Formaggio), and purchase these two items. Then thank me for changing your life.

Splendid Superfood

2010-01-20T08:30:00.000-08:00

Even though it's packed with nutrients and people have been eating it for thousands of years (the Incas considered it sacred, calling it chisaya mama, or mother of all grains), quinoa is staggeringly less popular than other cookable grains. It's light and fluffy, mild, if a bit nutty, and chock-full of things that are good for you, like protein, manganese, magnesium, iron, copper and phosphorus.

Last night I cooked up a pot and split it up into two recipes. First things first, here's how to cook it:

How to Cook Quinoa
1 c quinoa
1.5 c water
Dash of salt

Soak quinoa in hot water for a few minutes, then rinse and strain. Bring water to a boil, put the quinoa in, then simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to sit five minutes with the lid on.

The first recipe is a cold salad, which makes a healthy, filling take-to-work lunch. Use as much or as few veggies as you want, and use what you like! In addition to the ingredients I used below, Savvyvegetarian.com recommends snow peas, shell peas, celery, green beans, scallions, raisins, dried apricots, and minced jalapeno pepper.
Easy Vegan Quinoa Salad
recipe adapted from savvyvegetarian.com

1 cup quinoa
1 1/2 cups cold water
1/2 tsp salt
2 carrots, sliced
1/2 green pepper, sliced
1 large tomato, diced
1 cucumber, peeled and diced
1/2 red onion, diced
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, cilantro, or basil (I used 1 tsp dried basil and 1 tsp dried oregano instead)
1/2 cup toasted cashews (or chopped walnuts, or sunflower seeds)
Handful of dried cranberries
Small container of pitted kalamata olives, sliced

Dressing:

The juice of one lemon
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
Pinch of black pepper
Pinch of garlic powder

Directions

Cook quinoa according to directions above. Set aside to cool.
Steam the carrots and green pepper for 5 minutes.
Chop the tomatoes, herbs and cucumber.
Combine quinoa, veggies, nuts, berries, herbs, and olives in a large bowl.
Blend dressing ingredients with a whisk, then pour over the quinoa mixture.
Cover and chill.

The second recipe is a great way to sneak quinoa and fresh veggies into a classic dish. Pair the meatballs with pasta and marinara sauce—or make a meatball sub!

Beef and Quinoa Meatballs
recipe from wholefoods.com

Nonstick cooking spray
1 pound lean ground beef (I used locally farmed grass-fed beef, and you should too!)
3/4 cup cooked quinoa
1/4 cup finely chopped onions
1/4 cup grated carrots
1/4 cup grated zucchini
2 tablespoons ketchup
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1 egg

Directions

Preheat oven to 500°F.
Line a large baking sheet with foil then grease with cooking spray; set aside.
In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients until well combined.
Shape beef mixture into balls and transfer to prepared baking sheet. Roast until cooked through and golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes.

Dallas Day Trip

2010-01-18T07:23:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, while the rest of Texas was sinking into the sofa for the Cowboys game, we were driving north on 75 for the next in our series of day trips from Dallas. Our destination? McKinney, Texas, where, on the weekend before the third Monday of each month, hundreds of vendors set up shop at Third Monday Trade Days. Should you be in the market for a handcrafted oak cutting board, an old license plate, or a puppy —this is the place for you. And should you grow weary from browsing, a bounty of state-fair grub—corn dogs, turkey legs, tater tornados —is available for the noshing. We managed to keep to our shoestring budget, picking up only a $1 wall-mountable bottle opener and two wooden bowls ($3 each).

Shopped out, but with plenty of daylight hours still left to burn, we headed to McKinney's downtown square, where we encountered a historic village,

(surprise!) antique shops —and, thankfully, a wine bar where we could take a breather. Now, it was time for our final stop, Rockwall, abutting the shores of Lake Ray Hubbard—30-some-odd miles southeast. We ended our adventure at the Flying Saucer, a taphouse on the water.

Check out the photo montage!

Going Green

2010-01-14T09:35:00.000-08:00

It's not quite spring (hell, it's not even close to spring), but the ice has melted from the city's fountains and temps are back up to a cool mid-50s. That, coupled with the current events unfolding at home (Dan and I are in the negotiating period of buying our first house, which actually has a small yard!), and today's Dallas Morning News coverage of all things gardening has got me on a quest for flora, which, until we actually move out of our apartment on April 1, will remain mostly in my imagination.In gardening news today (control your yawns—this is actually pretty cool stuff), San Francisco's much-lauded Flora Grubb Gardens now sells flat, wall-mountable planters designed to hold tiny succulents that create a natural wall decoration. For 99 bucks, you get a 20”x20” tray with 45 slanted planting cells designed to support plants and soil once the thing is mounted. Voila!
Vertical Garden. (FYI this is meant to be displayed outdoors) For more enticing photos, see Flora's blog.

In Dallas, two new garden shops have opened: regional chain Under the Sun (7124 Campbell Road), and Downing Hill (3016 Greenville Ave.), which specializes in locally made garden accents, like gurgle pots, and yes, garden gnomes.

Taylor Pugh Still Studying Solo

2010-01-13T10:37:00.000-08:00

I'm finding it difficult to stifle my anger over the ridiculous scenario that's playing itself out at Floyd Elementary School in the Dallas suburb of Mesquite. Four-year-old Taylor Pugh has been exiled from class because his hair is an unacceptable length, according to the school's dress code. (see my previous post here) The latest? If he doesn't get a trim, he will be sent, indefinitely, to in-school suspension.

PHOTO: Torres/AP

From the Dallas Morning News story today:

Instead of working one-on-one with a teacher's aide in the library, Taylor would work by himself at a desk in the Floyd Elementary School office, said district spokeswoman Laura Jobe. "There would be people checking on him from time to time, but it wouldn't be the same attention he has now."

So a child with hair that is longer than what administrators deem appropriate, but who is otherwise perfectly well-behaved, is being punished. Not only that, but surely his education has suffered since the whole ordeal came about in November. Part of going to school as a four-year-old is interacting with the other tikes. And isn't the whole point of a dress code to cut down on distractions? What's more distracting—a kid with shaggy hair or the endless parade of cameramen, photographers, and reporters that have staked out the scene? Some would argue that his parents should bite the bullet and make an appointment at Supercuts. I'd argue that they're doing the right thing. They should continue to fight until Taylor's allowed to go to school with hair any length he wants. The next step, according to the Texas Education Agency, is for the Pughs to file an appeal to the state commissioner of education. What are they waiting for?

Going back to school? Get your masters in entrepreneurship!

2010-01-11T11:22:00.001-08:00

I've got a keen interest in all things entrepreneurial, especially since I became an official part-owner of Catskill Lodge, the inn my husband and his brothers own in Windham, New York. I love reading stories of people who are taking on careers that jibe with their real interests after leaving a job or being laid off. I also love reading about entrepreneurial success stories (a la Groupon). So I was excited to read that the University of Texas at Dallas just established a master's degree in entrepreneurship. Now those of us that want to do our own thing can go into with a little more know-how.

Read the Dallas Morning News article here.

Making Merriment with Meetup.com

2010-01-08T12:05:00.000-08:00

A few weeks ago, well, a month ago really, I started up my very own cheese enthusiasts group on Meetup.com (for anyone reading this that doesn't know me: I love cheese, and I spend about 20 hours a week behind the counter at Molto Formaggio, a cheese shop in Dallas).

I call it The Secret Life of Cheese (props to KOE's creative mind for giving me that title—I owe my forthcoming success all to her). With one successful event under my belt, I've just confirmed the details of my second gathering:

http://www.meetup.com/The-Secret-Life-of-Cheese/calendar/12263367/

If you're local, come on over!

Meet The Mayor

2010-01-08T06:05:00.000-08:00

Last night, Dan and I had the chance to meet Dallas mayor Tom Leppert at a small event hosted by the Young Professionals Group of the Friends of the Dallas Public Library. There weren't more than 30 people there, so the evening took on a casual feel—an unstructured Q&A with Leppert ensued. Some highlights:

The Trinity River Corridor Project is still rolling (slowly) along, Omni's mammoth convention center hotel will be up and running in 2012, DART is the largest light rail system in progress in the nation, in 2013 you'll be able to ride it to the airport (a benchmark that is decades too late if you ask me), Leppert wants to make the city more pedestrian- and bike-friendly (WOO-HOO!), oh yes, and the guy really, really likes Dallas.

Day Trip From Dallas: Give Me a Home, Where the Dinosaurs Roamed

2010-01-05T13:19:00.001-08:00

While my typical New Year's Day is spent watching movies on TBS and nursing a hellacious hangover, this year I decided to bring in 2010 with an adventure (and that's partially because I didn't have a hangover). Dan and I settled on a road trip to a place that would thrill most six-year-olds (and minimally excite most 26-year-olds)—Dinosaur Valley State Park, home to some of the most well-preserved dinosaur tracks in the world. At the first site within the park, we hiked right down to the bed of the Paluxy River, where, right next to three idle fishermen, were two bonafide dino footprints. For real! If the water were a little warmer in that bright blue swimming hole, we would've gotten right in to stick our feet inside the three-toed tracks. At the next site, we hopped rocks to cross the river and arrive at the older-than-ancient evidence of a dinosaur chase. Archeologists have concluded that here, some 113 million years ago, a meat-eating carnosaur ran after an unassuming sauropod (which looks like a brontosaurus). I have concluded that the outcome probably wasn't pretty (and that I'm beginning to sound like a dorky eight-year-old). The nearly-two-hour road trip led us past the kind of wide open spaces that reminded us of our trip home from San Antonio. Ahhh, the open road.

My Soap Is Dope

2009-12-30T15:01:00.000-08:00

My DIY diversions continue. The latest at-home project? Soap-making! Here's how I did it:

INGREDIENTS

37 oz. olive oil (use the cheap stuff)
2 oz. cocoa butter
24 oz. coconut oil
18 oz. palm oil
28 oz. cold water
12 oz. lye crystals (also known as sodium hydroxide)

I ordered all of this from Texas Natural Supply, and I used a kitchen scale to weigh it.

Start by mixing the lye crystals with the water in a Pyrex measuring cup, but remember, sodium hydroxide (lye) is caustic, so wear a dust mask (I'm not exactly sure if that even protects your lungs from the fumes) and ventilate your kitchen. I donned a bandana and blew a fan in my direction and survived. Don't let it get on your skin (OUCH!), and don't be alarmed when the mixture heats up and starts steaming. Let it cool to 110 degrees; meanwhile, warm the coconut oil, palm oil, olive oil, and cocoa butter to 110 degrees in a big ole' pot. When both the lye mixture and the oils are at the same temperature, pour the lye into oil pot. Stir with a wooden spoon until you see the trace (this takes A WHILE, and by A WHILE I mean, 45 minutes, so get comfortable or pour yourself a glass of wine). This video helped me figure out how to recognize the trace, which is basically when you lift some of the mixture out of the pot on your spoon and dribble it back into the pot, it makes a very thin residue on top. Apparently, you can buy a stick blender to make this process happen a lot faster, but I haven't done that yet.When you see the trace, add 10 ml of peppermint essential oil (or whatever essential oil you want). Then, pour into the mold. I used a 13" x 9" clear glass baking pan lined with wax paper. Cover with tin foil and let it set overnight. Afterward, cut into bars and individually wrap each one (I used wax paper and printed out homemade labels). Scrub a dub dub.

Now On Newsstands: The T+L 500

2009-12-27T19:43:00.000-08:00

The T+L 500, my last big editing project at T+L, is out now—pick up the January issue of Travel + Leisure!

Four-Year-Old Newsmakers

2009-12-17T16:30:00.002-08:00

Poor Taylor Pugh. At four years old, he has found himself at the center of school system controversy - all because he has shaggy hair. You see, it occasionally hangs down to his collar and covers his eyes, which, in the eyes of the administration, is outrageously inappropriate. (I think it's irresistibly cute.) So, since early November little Taylor has been receiving his pre-K instruction in the library, away from the other kids. This will continue until he gets a haircut - or until the powers that be get their %@#$ing priorities straight. Way to encourage individuality and self-confidence, teach.
But Taylor's not the only four-year-old making news. In Chattanooga, Tennessee, four-year-old Hayden Wright cracked a beer then walked over to the neighbors' house and stole five Christmas presents, including a little girls' dress which he was wearing when he was found (he was also holding a half-empty 12-oz beer). [resisting urge to mention countless beer-drinking Christmastime shenanigans here...] Sadly, the stint is a result of some serious family issues. Take it from Taylor's 21-year-old mom, April: "He runs away trying to find his father," she said. "He wants to get in trouble so he can go to jail because that's where his daddy is." Sorry, I just don't know what to say after that...

Whirlwind Weekend

2009-12-14T08:54:00.000-08:00

Wow, I forgot how short weekends become when you work on Saturday and Sunday! Still, Dan and I managed, in our typical fashion, to try four new eating and drinking establishments, tuor seven houses, and take a trip to Irving:

Friday:
Finally made another, long overdue trip to Vino 100, one of the first bars I went to here in Dallas. (Remember my post?) The fireplace was going, the wine was half-off...doesn't get much better, if you can stay awake that is. After an unsuccessful quest to find Thai food within walking distance, we ended up at Gui, which touts itself as a "Korean Japanese Bistro and Bar," that we found to be overpriced and slightly scene-y. Luckily we didn't overorder and had room to duck into one more sushi establishment, Yutaka. 100 times better.

Saturday:
We got up bright and early to tour seven houses up for sale (we're hoping to move out of our apartment and into a house in early April). They ranged from seriously outdated, seriously SCARY (as in insecure foundations and evidence of squatters) to absolutely charming. We've got our eye on one in particular just off Henderson Ave. We celebrated with an extra-large pizza at Rocco's, a BYOB pizza joint just up the street from our apartment. I had to put in a few hours at Molto, so Dan got the afternoon to himself. When I came home he was wearing a Santa hat and our living room window was decorated with Christmas lights, so the least I can say is that we was productive! That night we drove out to visit our friends Kate and Josh in Irving, just outside Dallas, who were hosting a game night. An evening of Apples to Apples, Battle of the Sexes, and Taboo ensued.

Sunday:
Another day at Molto - this time at the Preston Royal location. On my way to work I passed under the marathon runners on a Katy Trail pedestrian overpass (yesterday was the White Rock Marathon). After work we walked around Henderson Ave. and ducked in for a drink at Vickery Park just as the sun was setting. Did I mention it was 61 degrees here yesterday?!

Back to Work

2009-12-14T08:39:00.001-08:00

I'm now gainfully employed, part-time, at Molto Formaggio, a cheese shop here in Dallas! There are two locations - one in Highland Park Village, and one in the Preston Royal shopping center. If you know me you know that cheese has been my favorite food since I worked at Murray's in New York. It's great to be back in the game! So, if you're in Dallas, come on by...

Dallas's Bishop Arts District

2009-12-09T13:22:00.000-08:00

Today's Dallas adventure takes me to the Bishop Arts District, in Dallas's Oak Cliff neighborhood. I have returned with the promise to always bring out-of-towners (especially New Yorkers) here. It's one of the city's best pockets for eating, shopping, and walking around, all whilst supporting local small businesses.

My finds:

Zola's Everyday Vintage
Where I scored this sweet 70's handbag for 30 bucks!Bishop Street Market
The perfect spot for indulgent gifts, including an entire line of Thymes products, which, in case you don't know, includes those amazing-smelling Frasier fir candles, diffusers, and soaps.
Fete-ish
A bright assortment of giftable goodies, plus local art. I loved these wall plaques by Dallas artist T.G. O'Reilly.Make
Carries wares from crafty locals, like these snarky pillows, as well as hosts classes on everything from sewing to soap-making.

The Dallas Flea

2009-12-08T07:18:00.000-08:00

Saturday was the debut of the Dallas Flea, a well-edited marketplace of locally made goods, dreamed up and executed by Dallas's own Brittany Edwards, the editor of Daily Candy's not-long-for-this-world Dallas edition. (Last week Daily Candy announced the closure of several of its editions, including ours) Don't worry, I spoke to Brittany on Saturday, and she's got plenty up her own sleeve.

A few of my favorite find at the Flea:

Leah Duncan's drawings, printed on
8 x 10 paper, tea towels,
pendants, and pins.

Petit Four: pillows made from coffee and grain sacks festooned with colorful appliqué and trimmings.

Pamela Michelle's
hand-painted wood jewelry.
Cooper by Courtney Warren: oh-so-dainty party dresses.

I'm DIY'ing

2009-12-03T05:47:00.001-08:00

A combination of joblessness and cold weather that's keeping me inside has sparked the DIY bulb in my brain. Earlier this week, I made made pickles! Now, I cannot vouch for their success until eight weeks from now when I pop the top, but here's how I did it (tweaked from Allrecipes.com). You can buy all the ingredients at Whole Foods (or, if you're in Dallas, Central Market). I bought the jars at Sur La Table.

Ingredients

4 pounds pickling cucumbers (also called kirbys)
2 cups white vinegar
6 cups water
1/3 cup pickling salt
8 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
12 sprigs fresh dill weed

Directions

Cut off the flower end of each cucumber (it's the little brown spot on the end).
Soak cucumbers in a big bowl of ice water for at least 2 hours.
Sterilize 4 (1 quart) canning jars and lids in boiling water for at least 10 minutes.
Bring vinegar, water, and pickling salt to a boil.
Place 2 half-cloves of garlic and a few sprigs of dill in the bottom of each jar, then fill with cucumbers. Add 2 more garlic halves and 1 sprig of dill, then fill jars with hot brine and put the lids on.
Place each sealed jar in a pot of boiling water for 15 minutes.
Remove and set on the counter for at least 8 weeks before eating. Refrigerate after opening.

Day Trip From Dallas: Fun on the Farm

2009-12-01T06:28:00.000-08:00

A few weeks back while we were tooling around a farmer's market in Austin, we picked up a flyer for the Homestead Craft Fair, held annually in the itty bitty town of Elm Mott, Texas, near Waco. So, after a hellacious post-Thanksgiving travel day, we decided to sink into a simpler way of life. The event takes place at Brazos de Dios, a 510-acre "homesteading community." It's essentially a living history museum; except that the people you see spinning wool and milking goats actually live the colonial life within their own homes as well. It's part of their belief system, which I found to be best explained here. For us, it was a fantastic few hours of good clean fun—we watched rope making and soap making, sat in on a mozzarella-making demo, sampled hot apple cider, and listened to some staggeringly good fiddle-playing. The village is open year-round and offers classes to the public—from beekeeping and basketry to weaving and woodworking. Guess which one I'm signed up for?

New York, New York

2009-11-25T06:17:00.000-08:00

This week is the first time I've been back to New York since the move, and I spent yesterday wandering around Manhattan by myself. I had no place to be except for on the streets, and, for the first time since I moved to the city seven years ago, I felt like an outsider. With no apartment to go home to and no desk to sit behind, I really had no purpose. And because I wasn't distracted by all life's goings-on, I could finally see the city from the outside. The feeling of being here knowing that this place is no longer home is powerful. It's freedom; it's sadness. Every street I walked, every etablishment I entered held a memory. I watched the flurries of people crisscrossing paths in front of me, all hurrying to get to that place they were supposed to be, while I sat there with nothing to do but take it all in. Thing is, when you are one of those scurrying bodies, you long for the moments when you can sit back, relax, and have no plans. Most of the time, those moments are pretty good too.

Perfectly Pickled Cukes

2009-11-19T17:09:00.000-08:00

My new obsession: Habenero Dills from Hill Country Homestyle Canning. We picked up a jar at a farmstand on 281 somewhere between San Antonio and Dallas. I ate six on the way home. And I just had another...and another...and another.

A Most Splendid Wednesday Night

2009-11-19T07:13:00.001-08:00

It's hard to put together a series of events more perfect that the ones that unfolded last night. I have a wonderful husband, and I now I must gloat.

At quarter-to-5 we set off on a bike ride on the Katy Trail. But instead of arriving at Toulouse, the restaurant that I thought we were going to have a glass of wine at, we arrived at Spa Habitat. Surprise! Couples massage. And for no reason other than that it was Wednesday.

From there we stopped in at Cru and each got a flight of three wines and, of course, a cheese plate. We biked home, where we consumed even more wine and cheese (and, as luck would have it, I had a smidgen of Red Hawk, one of my all-time favorite soft and stinky cow's milk cheeses, left in the fridge - made even better by letting it get all oozy as it sat on a wood board by the fireplace. Mmmmmm.

To top it all off, Blood Simple, the Coen Brothers' first movie, had arrived via Netlflix. What's more romantic than a bottle of cabernet franc, a cheese board, and a knife planted in M. Emmet Walsh's hand by a 27-year-old Frances McDormand? For me, not much.,

An Evening at the Stoneleigh

2009-11-18T06:16:00.000-08:00

Last night I got a behind-the-scenes tour of the Stoneleigh Hotel, a 1923 property that was restored to its glamorous Beaux Arts self just last year. It's actually a five-minute walk from my apartment. I met Kate Neu, the hotel's PR director, at the bar, which is the kind of place that exudes old-world romance à la the Oak Room. On one wall, a worn red velvet banquette with a back spiring to the ceiling begs for you to sit on it and sip and old-fashioned as you daintily swing your high heel and scan the room. Above the bar itself are several pretty beaded glass chandeliers. But the best part was learning from the bartender a few secrets about the place...You see, back in its heyday the owner lived in the penthouse, which he outfitted with all kinds of secret passageways and storage spots. He even hid his mistress in a room on the second floor. Sneaky, sneaky.

I got to walk through that 12th-floor penthouse, which is now used as an event space. 500-year-old wood panels ring an entire room, there's hand-painted wallpaper in the dining room, and cozy little library bar. Now, I just need someone to hold a function there (and invite me). Meanwhile, I can't wait to mynext take in-town visitor to the bar!

Road Trip!

2009-11-17T07:00:00.000-08:00

We took of first Texas road trip over the weekend! The reason, above all, was that we were attending a party on Saturday night in San Antonio...

On our honeymoon back in September, we met five couples from San Antonio on our small cruise ship. Granted, they're my parents' age, but still, we had a great time hanging out with them that week. At the end, we were officially invited to the party they throw annually the second week of November.

So, on Friday afternoon we got in the Jeep and headed to Austin, where we spent the night to break up the trip (it's a five-hour drive to San Antonio). We had a fantastic dinner at East Side Cafe. It's tucked into the leafy neighborhood of Cherrywood, and housed in...a house. It's one of those places that has had its own garden since way before it was cool to do so. For starters, we ordered the crudité plate full of radishes and carrots fresh from the garden. My favorite was the watermelon radish - it's fairly mild for a radish, and when it's sliced it looks like little watermelon pieces. Dip it in a little kosher salt. Mmm.

The next morning we parked downtown and had brunch at Taverna. Freakin' good breakfast potatoes and $1 mimosas and bellinis! We meandered around downtown, stopping to partake in the Green City Festival and the farmers' market. Yes, Austin is every bit as chilled out, green, and delicious as we'd been told.

There were three items on our San Antonio to-do list: 1.) the Alamo, 2.) the Riverwalk, and 3.) El Mercado, the cluster of Mexican shops (if you went to Mexico and didn't bring back souvenirs, just come here). By 6 o'clock, we'd done it all, and that includes the educational video at the Alamo and a pit stop for margaritas.

Rather than taking the interstate home from on Sunday we took 281, which is a long stretch of country road that passes cattle ranches and small towns that post their population numbers on their welcome signs, as in EVANT, TEXAS. POPULATION 393. We passed through LBJ's hometown, (surprise!) Johnson City. We even pulled over at a farm stand to sample some fresh pecans. We passed the entrance to the Chisholm Trail, and the place where we'd turn to get to Dinosaur Valley State Park, which we're eagerly awaiting to check out on our next long, lazy drive...

Testing Dallas's Public Transportation

2009-11-05T09:54:00.000-08:00

Last week I took my first ride on a Dallas public bus. This was my second test of the city's public transportation system—the first being the time Dan and I rode the rails of the new Green Line train out to the State Fair, a trip that, despite the crowds, went rather smoothly.

Back to the bus ride...I was trying to get from my apartment in Uptown to 560, the restaurant housed in the big ball at the Hyatt hotel. I used the Trip Planner on DART's web site, which told me how to get from point A to point B. So far so good. I caught the bus on McKinney heading downtown and kept an eye out for my stop, Houston and Young Streets. Well, the bus never stopped at "Houston and Young," and pretty soon I was whizzing out of town on a bus bound for god knows where. After we got far enough away from downtwon that I realized I'd missed something, I asked the bus driver to let me off and I transferred to an uptown coach. Turns out I needed to get off at Union Station, which is located at Houston and Young. Would've been nice if the easy-to-use Trip Planner would've just mentioned that. So, I finally arrive back at Union Station, and I see the ball! Great! I walk towards it only to find a wide gap in the ground holding several north and southbound train tracks. Can't go over it, can't go under it...

Turns out I had to make a big arc around the station and down an underbridge ramp to get to my final destination. Great night to be wearing heels...Thanks again Dallas for being so pedestrian—and public transportation-friendly.

But I do have a soft spot for one mode of transport in Dallas's system: the M-Line trolleys that runs up and down McKinney. A.) They're free. B.) They're actually refurbished trolleys from the early 20th century—kind of like the historic trolley tours found in other cities, but without a driver spouting off factoids. Kind of makes me want to don my best feathered hat and head for a night on the town...

The Joy of Costless Furniture

2009-11-02T05:48:00.000-08:00

Because there are things like garage sales and pickup trucks here in Dallas, the great bounty of free stuff you encounter stacked on the sidewalks of New York on trash night just doesn't exist. Or so I thought...

Yesterday on our way home from a walk around the neighborhood, we came across a staggering pile of discarded household items next to the trash chute on our floor—dishes, hanging pictures, a coat rack, two vintage-looking travel chests. It was too good to be true, so Dan suggested we wait around to make sure someone wasn't just stashing it there momentarily (a ridiculous suggestion, I know). Pretty soon a guy came in from outside who was clearly the one moving out. Of course we could have all that stuff, he beamed—he'd be thrilled to see it go to someone who needed it rather than to the dumpster. In fact, he had a big lounge chair and a tv stand that he wanted to unload, and would we have a look?

So, not only did we come home with a few pictures to hang on the wall and one of the chests, we got a fab new tv stand (that actually fits our tv), and a big comfy chair.

Later that night on our way back in from a bike ride, we discovered yet another surprise in front of our door—a wine rack filled with red wine. Must be that our new friend just didn't have a use for it at his new place? I think it was just an incredibly generous "Welcome to Dallas" gift.

Oh, and those free wine glasses I nabbed? I think I know where they came from now!

Happy Halloween!

2009-10-30T14:47:00.000-07:00

Halloween has always been my favorite holiday. In high school I celebrated by throwing the biggest party of the year—every year (thanks for being so cool, mom and dad). Back then, I planned my costume six months ahead, and my mom sewed it for me (thanks again mom). In college I marched in the Village Halloween parade—three times. Then the merrymaking evolved into barhopping and attending parties, and the costume planning shortened to the weeks, not months, approaching October 31.

Last year, I threw my costume together on Halloween night. This year, things are shaping up similarly. I think I’m going to be a Jeopardy contestant. Thanks, Becky!

Correspondingly, as the costume planning takes up less time, irreverence and timeliness become more important than bearing skin. Yes, if you can pull off Bernie Madoff or Balloon Boy this year, you’re golden. Sure beats fading into the sea of slutty vampires...

A Box in the Mail!

2009-10-29T12:03:00.000-07:00

Today I received a package from a dear friend. In it, the ultimate inspiration for my next dinner party: White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for down-Home Entertaining. It's a follow-up of sorts to Ernest M. Mickler's White Trash Cooking, a book that my mother's had on her shelf since as long as I can remember.

It arrived just in time. Dan and I just purchased a dining room table and chairs ($125 on Craigslist!). Now, what's for dinner—tater tot casserole or Poochie's biscuit bean bake?

Latest Travel + Leisure Book Out!

2009-10-29T11:55:00.001-07:00

The book that I (and so many others) spent months working on has finally arrived! Go buy one (or three)!

Dallas High and Low

2009-10-29T11:37:00.001-07:00

Yesterday's Thrill No. 1:
Finding seven perfectly good wine glasses in a box outside the trash chute. Score!

Yesterday's Thrill No. 2:
Happy hour at Wolfgang Puck's Five Sixty, the slowly spinning restaurant in the big ball. From 5 - 7 on weekdays there's a menu of $5.60 appetizers and drinks, made better on this occasion by meeting two new friends there (moms don't worry—they weren't randoms. They work in public relations and I'd been in touch with them while I was at T+L).

Yesterday's Thrill No. 3:
Pizza and 25-cent wings (none for me, thanks) at new friends' favorite dive bar Bryan Street Tavern

Yesterday's Thrill No. 4:
Welcome-to-Dallas gift basket featuring wine, heavenly Neiman Marcus cookies (damn those things are good!), and a well-vetted insider's guide to Dallas, written by said new friends.

Hooray!

Death Penalty Watch

2009-10-22T07:05:00.000-07:00

Anyone who knows me well knows that I’ve got an irrepressible interest in crime reporting and exoneration cases. So does the state of Texas—on both sides of the spectrum. And, as Texas prepares for a gubernatorial election amid a series of wrongful death cases, capital punishment is front and center.

Tomorrow, two prisoners who were wrongfully sentenced for a 1997 murder will be released in a case that’s unique because it wasn’t DNA that proved their innocence, but a confession by the murderer after the case had been reopened. Research done by the University of Texas at Arlington Innocence Network and the Actual Innocence Clinic at the University of Texas at Austin prompted officials to reassess the case.

The story behind the 2004 execution of Cameron Todd Willingham, who was convicted of starting the fire in his home that killed his three children, has also been in the news recently. According to the Dallas Morning News, “In the past five years, at least six arson experts have examined evidence in the Willingham case and found that there were no credible indications that the fire was intentionally set.“ Governor Rick Perry defends the investigation, maintaining that Willingham was guilty and even calling him "a monster."

The case prompted former governor Mark White, once a dogged death penalty supporter, to release a television commercial in which he apologized for the executions conducted during his term, fearing that some may have taken the lives of innocent people. "There is a very strong case to be made for a review of our death penalty statutes and even look at the possibility of having life without parole so we don’t look up one day and determine that we as the State of Texas have executed someone who is in fact innocent," he said.

Before I moved here, I’d been following the saga of Sharon Keller, the judge who closed her office at 5:00 on the dot despite desperate pleas from a team of lawyers working feverishly to draft an appeal that may have stopped the execution of Michael Richard. “It seemed that Richard’s attorneys were having some computer problems that were preventing them from getting their motion for a stay filed before the clerk’s office closed, at 5. They wanted to know if they could deliver it after-hours—5:15, 5:30 at the latest. Keller, who has been on the CCA since 1994 and the presiding judge since 2000, listened to Marty’s question. Under her leadership the court has been one of the more conservative in the country, developing a reputation, especially on the left, for rubber-stamping death sentences. Her reply would cement this: “We close at five.”

Since 1982, the death penalty in Texas has taken the lives of 441 people. According to the New York Times, "that includes 334 since the start of 1997, a period in which Texas accounted for 41 percent of the national total."

Biking the Big D

2009-10-20T09:09:00.000-07:00

Presenting my new wheels...I got the bike for fifty bucks on Craigslist and it looks almost exactly like the bike I had when I was 12. See that hot pink? So neon, so 1995. So awesome.

Scenes from the State Fair of Texas

2009-10-18T06:54:00.000-07:00

Big Tex

Believe it.

Here's what winning the watergun game gets you!

Tre, the 1,000-pound pig.

Nachos, Texas-style. Yum!

Game Day

2009-10-17T06:41:00.001-07:00

We'll just let the picture tell the story...

Wine, and a lesson in Texas politics

2009-10-16T09:10:00.000-07:00

Say what you will, I have the best of luck meeting people in bars. Exhibit A: Looking for a glass of wine and some conversation, I walked over to Vino 100 last night, a wine bar and store just down the street. The place feels like a living room- there is a fireplace, a big couch, and some hearty wood dining tables. The bar itself only has a few stools, and the walls near it are lined with wine for sale. Over a glass of Viognier (and later, Sauvignon blanc ), I got to know the bartender, Ryan, and the only other patron, Johanna, a professor of British literature at UT Arlington. My segue into saying that I just moved here was Ryan's comment on Thursday's New York Times article on the new Performing Arts Center. While the news made the front page of the Arts section, the writer just couldn't help but point out the reality of the arts scene in this city:

"Civic leaders have been trying to give this city a cultural heart for decades now, but the results have always felt more like a loose collection of unrelated buildings than a cohesive urban vision."

Having walked the Arts District just yesterday, I can attest that it does feel somewhat empty, especially compared to the stairs full of people that can be seen every day in front of the Met. And the area surrounding the two new buildings is anything but pedestrian-friendly. To walk there, you have to make a wide arc around the surrounding blocks, crisscrossing streets to avoid road construction and sidewalk closures. We'll see how things shape up in the coming months.

Turns out that my new bartender friend is an actor with a knack for Texas politics. Did you know that LBJ nicknamed his wife Lady Bird so that her initials would match his? Oh yeah, and his children also had the initials LBJ. Convenient (and narcissistic), huh?

During the course of the evening I was also introduced (in conversation, not in person) to Ann Richards, the charismatic former Texas governor known for her speech at the 1988 Democratic National Convention. My favorite line:

"Ginger Rogers did everything that Fred Astaire did. She just did it backwards and in high heels."

I also picked up a quote from Texas politician John Garner, FDR's vice president. In describing the job, Garner once said it's "not worth a bucket of warm spit."

Now that's Texan.

Arts & Architecture (and, unexpectedly, Sculpture)

2009-10-15T19:26:00.000-07:00

Today I was all set to attend an architecture forum with Rem Koolhaas at the spanking new Wyly Theater, an event that was advertised as free at 4 p.m. So I walked downtown to get a seat—little did I know I needed a ticket. Not that the website of the Performing Arts Center gave any hint. No one wants to hear me complain about the inefficiency of communication, so to hell with it. I took it as a chance to tour the Nasher Sculpture Center just down the street. My favorites: Rush Hour by George Segal, Bronze Crowd by Magdelena Abakanowicz, and Walking To The Sky, by Jonathan Borofsky. Come to find out, there was also an exhibit on the architecture of Foster + Partners, the designer of the Winspear Opera House, the other big-deal arts opening in Dallas this week. Norman Foster is speaking at a forum tomorrow morning. Now, if I can only figure out where to get a "free" ticket...

Baking Bread

2009-10-14T08:50:00.000-07:00

Now our apartment smells homey too. Yesterday I baked banana bread and also learned a little baker's trick. If you don't have baking soda to mix with your all-purpose flour, just substitute self-rising. (maybe that's just obvious, but I'm new at housewivery) I used this recipe.

Adventures in Fitness (Indoors and Out)

2009-10-14T08:03:00.000-07:00

Being home all day sure is motivation to get some exercise. Lucky for me, an entrance to Katy Trail is just down the street. The 3.5-mile still-in-progress trail is a "public park" that's "privately maintained," which means it's funded by donations. A running path runs alongside a cycling trail, and the whole shebang is built atop of a former railroad track. The trail begins a little bit south of the entrance I use and goes north to the Mockingbird Statio n area. It's great because it serves as an access point to other neighborhoods, like Knox-Henderson, and it links some small city parks. I just read that a cafe is supposed to open along the trail. That calls for some investigation.

There's also a Sunstone Yoga center across the street. Yesterday I took my first class, a 90-minute session called Fire. 98.6 degrees/60% humidity. No surprise, it was HOT, and the room was filled with sweaty, contorting bodies. I later found out that something was awry with the heating and humidity system, making the room significantly hotter than it should've been. Knowing that, I can't wait to go back!

Dinner & A Movie

2009-10-14T07:41:00.000-07:00

Now that we're mostly settled in, we're finally getting out of the house and out on the town. On Saturday we drove to Mockingbird Station, a big mixed-use development (though tastefully done with a boxy, warehouse feel) home to American Apparel, kidrobot, and the Angelika Film Center (our reason for going). We caught a late showing of A Serious Man. Next time, we'll go earlier to check out Trinity Hall, a lively pub with folks playing fiddle and trivia on Tuesday nights. We hear it's pretty cool.

On Sunday we drove to White Rock Lake, a motorboat-free body of water right in city, ringed by a cycling/running track.

Geisha House, the restaurant across the street that's housed in the same plaza as a sister apartment building to ours, offers 20 percent off to residents of our buildings, so we went! Read my review here.

As for Tex-Mex, we've been to Mia's. They say the brisket tacos reign supreme here; my cheese enchiladas were pretty damn good too. Tonight, we're off to Manny's.

Worlds Collide In Dallas

2009-10-14T07:30:00.000-07:00

Monday was a big day in Dallas: U2 performed at the new Cowboys Stadium, Oprah stopped in at the Texas State Fair, and the new Performing Arts Center kicked off its opening week.

Our Apartment

2009-10-14T07:11:00.000-07:00

The city of Dallas has several neighborhoods (Oak Lawn, Downtown, Deep Ellum, Knox-Henderson). We live in Uptown, which, admittedly, shows signs of New York's Murray Hill—an abundance of sports bars and twentysomething males in striped shirts. But our location allows us to walk to a number of shops, bars, and restaurants. So far we're happy here.

The apartment buildings in Uptown are like dorms for the post-college set. They have gyms, pools, a mailbox station. I call ours "the fortress" because it has a pool in its center. Unfortunately
the water is too cold to swim.

Hello Dallas!

2009-10-14T06:58:00.000-07:00

Exactly one week ago, I moved to Dallas—after seven years in New York City. I've created this blog to keep in touch with my faraway friends, as well as to write the goings-on about town, as I become...a...Texan.

So far, I'm enjoying the modern conveniences—a dishwasher and washer/dryer in my apartment, central heating and air, a parking garage, a car, SPACE—things that are hard to come by as a New Yorker. That said, there are some customs here that I've had trouble getting used to:

1.) Valet Parking. Most of the restaurants here have valet, even though there are wide-open parking lots abutting them. What's the rule here? Can you say "No, thanks, I'll park it myself."? Tried that. The valet guy insisted.

2.) Parking Lots at Bars. Scary.

3.) Window Shades Down (at all times). In New York, entire evenings can be spent watching events unfold in across-the-street apartments. There's a mentality that if you're nine floors up, no one can see through your picture windows. Not true. In our apartment building, I've yet to see a first-floor apartment with it's shades open, day or night. I guess we're exhibitionists...